When it happens, does it seem consistent? If it's consistent for you, a saved part list and example part to add would be very helpful in diagnosing. Thanks!
Are you seeing this problem consistently? Does it happen with any part when it happens, or only certain ones?
We haven't been able to reproduce this on our side yet. If you can save a build where it happens then share it along with mentioning an example part that fails to add, that would be very helpful.
Thanks for the feedback. You're not alone in making this request. We are looking at some ideas for an alternate layout on the part category pages to include in a future update to the mobile site.
My apologies for not catching your feedback sooner, but yes -- something like that is in the works and will roll out with an update to mobile site soon.
It should. My personal phone is a Lumia, so I try to keep it happy.
Sorry about that -- we're working on it!
yeah.. I'm seeing it as well. Looking into it now.
No problem -- you should be able to switch to the desktop version of the site by clicking the link at the bottom of any page. It will remember your preference unless you clear your cookies.
Very strange. What device and browser are you using?
Fear not. Favorites will eventually make their way to mobile as well.
We rolled in a couple bug fixes last night and this morning related to the desktop/mobile cookie not sticking that might have been the cause. Testing today on a Kindle Fire with and without accelerated browsing enabled seems to be working for me now, but let me know if you're still seeing it.
Yep. Still in work, but coming.
With Windows 7 and 8 you can hold the Windows logo key+Shift+Left/Right arrow to move a window between monitors. No extra utility needed for just that.
The fix we were looking at went in, so hopefully it addressed what you were seeing. Let me know if it didn't -- thanks!
I may be misunderstanding you, but the part category view does only show the cheapest price. However, if you click on the part's title (or the View button below a listing), then it should take you to a part-specific page with all the available prices listed along side the detailed specs.
Interesting. I'll see if I can reproduce it on our end.
Also, which device/browser do you happen to be using? Thanks.
I'll keep that in mind. Glad you're liking it so far.
While there are definitely areas of the site that will drop you back into the desktop site, generally browsing from within the mobile site should keep you there (except of course the link it has to the forums).
Do you remember what you were doing when you saw it drop back to the desktop site?
Gotcha & Noted. I'll keep that in mind as we iterate on that page.
Glad you like it! Would you mind elaborating a bit on what you found confusing with the filter button?
We are working on a fix and hope to roll it out shortly. Sorry for the inconvenience.
A little bit, though not as much as my dad. I bounced a lot of the ideas for this project off of him and he helped me work out the final wiring when I did the trunk install. As it turned out, the car side of the project is not too tough if you plan carefully and apply ample patience. But I will say that noise considerations (for power and audio) in an automotive environment can get downright crazy.
I did not consider it at the time of this build. I've seen a few folks leverage tablets to do similar things over the past year, so I've considered it since. However, they tend to pair it with an existing head unit to augment the desired features not easily attained with the tablet. The main advantage to a full on PC is probably flexibility, both in software and available I/O options.
My design goal was to keep it feeling somewhat OEM and still manage features both typical and atypical of an aftermarket head unit. While power constraints would be easier, I think a number of features would be tougher using a tablet (though not impossible).
One of these days I still hope to add backup and dash cams, tire pressure sensors and a secondary screen. With the exception of the backup camera which can bypass the PC and feed directly to the screen, I'll need a more powerful processor to do much more. There are also all kinds of sensors I'd love to experiment with that would be difficult without some sort of data acquisition interface which is fairly simple to do on a PC.
It can be, particularly if you are doing a lot of short start/stop drives.
There are options to make it better, such as using hybrid hibernation and letting the system continue to run at reduced power from the battery when the ignition is off, etc. The power supply can be configured to not cut the power to the system for minutes up to hours (or even never). Doing this, it's almost an instant on experience during that window you configure. The downside is there can be hardware issues on a full resume that a reset on resume of the device doesn't always work around. And then of course there's the risk of draining your battery.
In the end, it tends to not be a major issue once you grow accustom to it. Though one of these days I still hope to build a better, stronger, faster version.
yes. To clarify, it is an overpriced fancy radio that was far more trouble to get working than it's probably worth. But it has also been a lot of fun to tinker with over the past couple of years. :)
Thanks guys -- glad you enjoyed taking a look!
It does sound funny, but to each their own. :) You should be fine for BF3. According to its product page, only Vista SP1 or later is required. Though they do recommend Windows 7.
You won't hear me argue against keyboard/mouse dominance, but when I jump in a helo or jet in BF3, I'd be in trouble without a controller or flight stick. They are also my preference for arcade/platformer/etc games.
I'm using a wired Razer Onza with Windows 8. I also use standard XBOX 360 wireless controllers (using the adapter linked above) when more controllers are needed for multiplayer (I'm not sharing the Onza!). Anyway, there's quite a bit of love for XBOX controllers in Windows 7/8. Plug 'em in and game.
Could you just pick up an inexpensive HDMI to DVI cable (Amazon sells several in the $5-8 range that have good reviews). You could use that on your PC or the Xbox and then use your normal HDMI cable for the other device.
If your VS238 is like my VS247, switching inputs is a simple push of a button on the front, so seems like a reasonable setup.